I think in the recesses of every child's mind lives a dream that one year their birthday celebration would be so huge, everyone they knew would stop the rigors of their ordinary lives and join in the commemoration of their big day. Well, maybe that was just my fantasy, but during my final days in Thailand I witnessed first hand a celebration of such a magnitude. On December 5th, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej turned eighty and the country acknowledged this milestone with an enormous event. The best part...everyone was invited!

If you spend any amount of time in Thailand, or simply know any Thais, you will soon become aware of the ubiquitous love they reserve for their king. His Majesty is simply a social or political figurehead, he maintains the highest degree of adoration, veneration and devotion. He is viewed by his people in a manner that would normally be reserved for a loving father. While most of the country will never speak to him or even personally set eyes on this noble, he is counted as a member of the family and any chance to celebrate him is thought to be an honor. In his sixty years of service, he is known for completing hundreds of environmental, educational and philanthropic projects. He takes the time to address the country regularly, dispelling sage advice while escorting them through the inevitable changes sure to affect a developing country. One of the King's most cherished attributes is that he's respected globally as an adroit leader and politician. His reputation of international diplomacy in the arena with presidents, other monarchs and global trade and health organizations, makes the country proud to be under his leadership. An endearing quality I found is that the Thai people also revere him as a father to his four children, a loyal son to the deceased Queen Mother, a husband for many decades and a man with hobbies and personal interests. Known for his love of photography and sailing, there are pictures of the King engaging in these activities on banners and billboards across the country.

On the eve of his birthday he addresses the people of Thailand from a live broadcast. I observe the country come to a halt. I imagine the scene is reminiscent of the days of Kennedy, Mohamed Ali fights, Martin Luther King speech's and man's first trip to the moon. It was in those moments Americans would congregate in the barber shops, dinners, and around store fronts, just to get a view of what was being aired. Tonight the King stands proud in a sharp suit, hair a soft grey, glasses wide and clear. He speaks with the authority of a man who's known nothing besides nobility and leadership but somehow emanates a true pulse for the needs of his people. While I don't understand his words, I do understand the consideration they're given. I understand that people from all walks of life identify with his message, and the advise he extols that evening will be analyzed and implemented with sincerity.

The party is kicked off that evening. The enormous field, adjacent to the royal palace became the main venue for the festivities, but the crowds and activity inevitably spilled over into the surrounding streets. The events of the evening had lured everyone out of their shops, restaurants and homes, and they began to gather in droves as the sun takes it's final curtain call. Surrounding the perimeter of the field is a line of vendors. This allows anyone to purchase anything from fresh fruit juice to a pair of homemade shoes. The crowd gently migrates counterclockwise around the track browsing the wares, but gradually the masses are lost, magnetically pulled into the center field, no longer able to avoid the allure of the main attraction.

The scene in front of me is only analogous to a modern music festival. Four massive stages have been erected and strategically dispersed around the grounds. Behind each are colossal pictures of the King, all at different stages of life, engaging in various activities. I make my way from stage to stage enjoying the assortment of entertainment. The first platform exhibits traditional Thai dancing performed by a troop of young, ornately decorated Thai girls. Watching them dance, each practiced step filled with deliberation and concentration, feels like the veil is being removed and the girls are becoming women in front of my eyes. The body of a child is transformed as they move with a grace and maturity far beyond their years. It's as though they've learned the message of the movements from childhood, but not until this performance are they actually embracing the symbolism their body enacts. While the dancing is unique to the Thai culture, the audience surrounding this stage has universal traits. I'm amused to watch the proud parents, pushing closer to the stage, digital cameras in hand, swaying back and forth to the music. It appears there is a unanimous language of parental pride and accomplishment that takes place when a child is performing, and as the Thais proudly beam at their friends and record the performance, I realize they're no different. The quintessential stage mother exists everywhere!

The following two stages feature pop performances, and the crowds get increasingly animated and rowdy. At any given moment I can see the following scene: A group of men in their late teens/early twenties one arm wrapped around their nearest friend, the remaining hand tightly griping a half empty bottle of whiskey. Eyes glazed, they sway back and forth screaming out the lyrics of their favorite songs. The women gather further toward the back, giggling and pointing at the guy who's grabbed their attention for the evening. The performers are dressed in suitable rock star attire. The only flaw to their carefully selected wardrobe is that the outfits seem to be recycled from American bands touring in the 90's. Despite the oppressive heat, the rock band has reincarnated the Pearl Jam undershirt and flannel guise and the lead singer from the pop group has nearly duplicated Gwen Stefani's "I'm Just a Girl" look. They give it their all, and I can tell this performance marks the zenith of their careers. After every couple songs, they pay homage to the king and at his very mention the crowd erupts in cheers of emphatic jubilation and love.

The final attraction has drawn the largest crowd of all. On this platform the Intercontinental Mui Thai Championships are taking place. I try to make my way through the crowd, but I find the wall of people quickly becomes impenetrable. Switching back and forth between my video camera and the digital, I attempt to get a clear shot of the action. It doesn't take long before I tire of being "accidentally" groped and shoved around by my fellow sports fans. Each strike exchanged by the fighters is answered with an equally violent and synchronized cheer from the audience. This war cry fuels both the fighters and the spectators, creating a symbiotic exchange of adrenaline. But it's the furious chorus from the cartel of avid gamblers surrounding me that really makes things exciting. Money changes hands as fluidly as blows are thrown, and the desperation of the gamblers is palpable. As I take one final shot of the crowd before relinquishing my coveted spot to go hunt for a more comfortable vantage point, I use my zoom to get a closer look at what's taking place behind the ring. I follow the route of the lovely ringside ladies (who so accurately keep us updated from round to round), the ESPN cameras and photojournalists as they employ a catwalk between the stage and the ring. On this stage I see plush leather couches, filled with heavily guarded royals, fight promoters and what I can only assume to be Thai TV or movie personalities. More importantly, what grabs my attention is what's behind them...a couple rows of chairs filled with people that do not look like they fall into the coveted categories listed above. While it's clear they probably belong in this VIP area, I'm not convinced that I cannot somehow blend with this group of westerners. Now I have a mission, and I navigate through the crowds and towards the stage to get a better idea of my "game board". I'm determined to be up there, in a comfortable chair, with an unobstructed view by the start of the next fight. Game on…

When will I learn to be careful of what I wish for!!!

I locate the guarded entrance and prepare my plan of attack. I take out my camera, which is quite large, giving me an undeserved air of professionalism, and stand close enough to be seen while looking very furtively into the LCD screen. I see a crowd of guarded Thai people approach the entrance and I move over in an effort to be mistaken for part of the group. While everyone is checked and ushered in one at a time, I notice a very smartly dressed, middle-aged Thai women smiling up at me. With perfectly practiced English, she begins to make conversation, asking me where I'm from and if I have enjoyed my stay in Thailand. We exchange pleasantries as we both pass inspection. I'm in! The victory is short-lived as I start to realize people have surrounded us and are bowing to her. She bows back but continues our conversation while we are directed up the stairs and onto the stage. Before I know what's happening, we're center stage and the activity inside the ring has come to a halt. With all eyes and cameras directed on her, she excuses herself and accepts the microphone handed to her. She waves, the crowd roars and she briefly addresses the athletes and the spectators. I try to slowly back away (at least out of camera range) but I'm completely stuck. When she's finished, she sits down in the same leather couch I envied just minutes before. We make eye contact again and I bow my head in respect and wave goodbye. No such luck. She laughs a bit, pats the open space next to her and motions for me to sit. I'm obedient and try to ignore how absurd I feel in my over-sized backpack, shorts, tank top and hideous Crocks. I channel all my effort into dismissing the "who is she" stares I'm fielding from every direction. I wonder if I can somehow be arrested for this, but I push that thought aside and focus on the introductions that are happening around me. Thankfully the next fight begins and the attention is moved elsewhere.

The rest of the evening is amazing. I find out that my new friend's position is what would roughly translate into Attorney General of Thailand. Though she does not stay long, I'm given the opportunity to tell her about my project and even give her my card. Another great result of this encounter is the prominent illusion that we're somehow acquainted. This translates into full backstage access to all the events. I take advantage and join the photographer's ringside. This allows me to take some incredible shots of the fighters. Fortunately the luck extends through the rest of that night and throughout the following day. I wander backstage and document the fighters taping up and getting stretched out. I feel like I'm in an ancient gladiator pit. The smell of sweat, urine and tiger balm fills the air. I'm pretty sure this is no place for a girl with a camera, but there is something so carnal about these men sitting backstage waiting to fight I cannot pull myself away. This particular belt title carries international prestige and therefore an intercontinental draw, so while the fighters refer to the Mui Thai traditions, each has their own way to prepare for the fight. The Americans have hip hop blaring from their earphones, the eastern block fighters sit in the middle of their entourage, straight faced and occasionally get slapped around by their trainers. The Thai boxers quietly keep their head down and shadow box in the corner. They're alert and the bravado is arresting. The tournament fighting goes well into the night and everyone leaves in the early morning to go home and prepare for the following day.

The next morning marks the official birthday and it's ushered in with early morning parades, music and food on every corner. Most businesses are closed, and messages of birthday wishes are written on shop windows. The Thai people all don yellow shirts with the royal crest and begin to light candles around the city to honor the eightieth birthday of their beloved king. It's fascinating to be in a country where the leader is universally loved. There is such devotion and pride I find it irresistible and join in the celebration. Since it's my last day in the country, I run around to tie up loose ends but by nightfall, I join the thousands of foreigners and Thais at the field to watch an elaborate display of fireworks and performances. Once again the stages are filled with popular singers and dancers. I do a lap but end up maneuvering through the wave of yellow shirts and find myself ringside taking more pictures and cheering on my favorite fighters. The night plays out much like the first and I'm sad when it's my time to head back to the hostel, grab my things and head for the airport. The roads are packed, but since we're one of the few heading out of the city, I make it in time to catch my flight.

As we pull away from the heart of the scene, I turn around to watch the final pageant of fireworks in full bloom. Indulging myself for a moment, I pretend they're my going away present and then thankfully begin to go through my rolodex of remarkable experiences this country has given me. Years ago I came here to teach at a small pilot University for underprivileged kids. During that trip I would meet one of my best friends who would become my sister in law. I would be inspired by professors, travelers, farmers and students. I left after a year knowing I'd return when life once again granted me the opportunity. It's been six years and the second trip, while much shorter, was no less memorable. I exit once again with five festivals under my belt and a new appreciation for the Thai culture, it's beloved monarch, and the people that make up this incredible country. This trip I crossed paths with dedicated volunteers, veteran travelers, kindred spirits met over a meal and on overnight trains and generous and eccentric hostel owners. I'm not sure when I'll return, but my final thoughts are filled with plans for new things to see, places to revisit and people I need to keep in touch with.

Many of you receiving this email are described above. Thank you for your inspiration and travel safely!

Heather Connolly
myunbeatenpath.com